She's Running But...

She's leaking out of her Accelerating Pump Assembly

New Filler Neck and Hose...Why Not?

You figure you have a new fuel line, tank, fuel pump and filter so you might as well order a new Filler Neck and Hose. Well, funny thing-the holes don't always line up. So we may be drilling soon. As you can see in the top picture, it's just barely off.

Fuel Line-Way easier to put in

So after we had already removed pretty much everything in the way, putting the new fuel line in was pretty easy.

Fuel Line Replacement-Everything Else

We had to continually remove items to get the fuel line out. This started with the muffler, then the left rear tire, then the left rear shock and finally the E-Brake...

The only picture we took of this was where we removed the E-Brake. Make sure you have it released so that there is no tension when you go to loosen this cable.

Fuel Line Replacement-brackets

Alright, so there are two brackets on the fuel line that you have to pull back the carpet on the inside to get to. One is pretty close to underneath the back seat and the other is up near the back side of the front seat. The only way to get at these two (once again) is to pull back the carpet and get at these brackets with a pair of pliers (top picture). All of the other brackets are pretty straight forward.

Fuel Tank Install

For the new fuel tank we cleaned up the area that the old tank sat on (finding the original ivy green underneath) We prepped the fuel tank site by applying a Rust Stop type of product and plumber's putty. Now we have the fuel tank in, so next step will be the fuel line.

New Fuel Sending Unit

Here are some pics of the new fuel sending unit. It's pretty easy to install, it can only go in one way. The are no special tools for the retaining ring (so it was back to the old hammer and screw driver method).  

Fuel Sending Unit

Fuel Sending Unit was horribly rusted. To get it out of the old fuel tank we used a bunch of WD40, a screwdriver and a mallet. We'll be working to get a new sending unit tomorrow before we install the fuel tank.

Old Fuel Tank

Here are some pics we took of the old fuel tank as well as some of the material we found inside.

New Fuel Tank

Fuel Tank arrived via FEDEX today.

1966 Mustang Color Chart

This is a color chart that I got from : http://www.svs.com/zim/mustang/66colors.html
Jason Z. also has pics of mustangs in these colors as well as coverage of his 64 1/2 Mustang Restoration. Thanks Jason.

Fuel Tank Shipping

Ordered a new fuel tank and fuel lines from California Mustang on Monday and received a phone call today stating that shipping was going to be $140 vice $53 for 2-3 day shipping. Just went back to their website to check again via their online check out process and came up with the same thing ($53). Called back the company and was told if I would have ordered via the phone vice internet I would have been told actual shipping charges vice estimate based on price. So now we will be getting the Fuel Tank and Fuel Lines in about a week for $35 ground.

Fuel Tank

So now we are working on draining and removing the fuel tank. This job is still ongoing at the moment. As you can see, we do not have the most advanced method going, but it works and is a lot cheaper than a $40+ electric pump that you will use once to get the fuel out. If  you go the route we did, ensure that your line from the fuel tank to whatever you are draining into is straight and not looped up like a roller coaster.

What the...

With the new Fuel Pump in we were still getting no fuel to the carburetor. Once again we worked our way back to the inline fuel filter where we were getting nothing on the outlet side, but the fuel pump was working. When we removed the filter it was full of sludge. Next we started just pumping through the Fuel Pump into a bottle and you see what we got in the pictures.

Fuel Pump

Once the U-Joint was replaced we started working on getting the Stang to turnover, but we were getting nothing. We started at the carburetor and worked are way back. We replaced fuel hoses that appeared to be rotting and old. We then tested to see if we were getting suction through the fuel pump by connecting a gas can via hose to the inlet and then a bottle to the outlet and got nothing. So the next step was replacing the fuel pump (cost approx $20). This step is pretty easy-there are only 2 bolts to disconnect.

U-Joint

The drive shaft had been removed in order to tow the Stang across country. When Shawn and I started looking at the Rear Universal Joint we ended up replacing it. The 2 hardest parts of this job were:

1. Removing the U-Joint (we used a C-Clamp and hammer)

2. The 3 trips to the store to get the correct U-Joint (Book lists part number 4635). The one we got to fit is from the box in the picture.

Pics of when I first received the car in 06

Beginning...

Today marks the beginning of a blog to document the restoration of a 1966 Mustang that was passed onto me by my Godfather who originally purchased this car back in 1966.